I recently found a ninja 250 for sale and the other day I took a look at it and found a few problems. The bike is a 2007 and it has 1500 miles on it and the price is $2400. The guy told me that at 500 miles he was supposed to take it to the dealer so they will chage the oil and adjust the carburator. He said that he changed the oil himself instead and didn't take it to the dealer for the adjustment. Now I was wondering if anyone knows much about this adjustment and if it is something important. Also there was some engine oil on the throttle cable and under the intakes. Is there an oil line that runs around this area so I can check to see if its leaking? Other than these two problems the bike looks pretty clean and looks good. Any advice will be appreciated.

I recently found a ninja 250 for sale and the other day I took a look at it and found a few problems. The bike is a 2007 and it has 1500 miles on it and the price is $2400. The guy told me that at 500 miles he was supposed to take it to the dealer so they will chage the oil and adjust the carburator. He said that he changed the oil himself instead and didn't take it to the dealer for the adjustment. Now I was wondering if anyone knows much about this adjustment and if it is something important. Also there was some engine oil on the throttle cable and under the intakes. Is there an oil line that runs around this area so I can check to see if its leaking? Other than these two problems the bike looks pretty clean and looks good. Any advice will be appreciated.

I am not sure where you are but best to find a local shop if you think the bike needs carbs adjusted, it should not be much to adjust your carbs, if they want too much find another shop......you can pretty much tell by how it idles and response when you crack the throttle......if you hear any back fire when throttle is off after raving it then you definitely need to have it adjusted.....:)

Well recently I got another ninja 250. Its a 05 with 1800 miles. The guy told me he didn't do the 500 miles maintaindance which requires the checking for valve adjustments. Do you guys think its worth spending 300 bucks to do it since its only a check.

Well recently I got another ninja 250. Its a 05 with 1800 miles. The guy told me he didn't do the 500 miles maintaindance which requires the checking for valve adjustments. Do you guys think its worth spending 300 bucks to do it since its only a check.

I am not sure where you are but $300 for valve clearance check should not be that much....if you are in AZ look up D.P. Supersports and talk to either Jeff or Eric......they will take care of you, they charge $160 to check and to actually do it is $260. Most of the time valves don't need adjustment since they are that new.....so if you are not here in AZ let your local shop know that you just want to have valve clearance check first, don't let them rip you off.....:mad:

No I live here in kentucky. The owner's manual calls for another valve adjustment check at 3000 miles and I alread put about 200 miles on my bike. Do you think its safe to just wait another 1000 miles and get it checked or should I do it right away?

No I live here in kentucky. The owner's manual calls for another valve adjustment check at 3000 miles and I alread put about 200 miles on my bike. Do you think its safe to just wait another 1000 miles and get it checked or should I do it right away?

I had mine done as scheduled Maint. by the book, that way you are on top of thing and if anything fail during warranty period you are not going to get tagged from manufacturer for not following their advise.....if valves are ok and depending on how hard you ride you can pretty much skip the next one......just keep the oil change every 3k, don't skip that and your bike will be in good shape. You can always protect your bike by using Synthetic oil. I have been using Mobile 1 (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oils.aspx) since after break in period. I don't have to change my oil as often but I check my oil filter every 3 months. I use Scotts Performance oil filter (http://www.scottsperformance.com/products.php?PartType=3).

I recently changed mine and I used K&N oil filter and castrol 4t motorcycle oil. At first I was going to use synthetic but I heard I shouldn't until the bike has at least 3k miles and sometimes they make your clutch wear out sooner so I dedcided to go with regular oil.

I recently changed mine and I used K&N oil filter and castrol 4t motorcycle oil. At first I was going to use synthetic but I heard I shouldn't until the bike has at least 3k miles and sometimes they make your clutch wear out sooner so I dedcided to go with regular oil.

Its a good idea to wait until 3k miles to change over.......I am not sure why Synthetic oil will make clutch go bad, instead I think it should help but best to just wait and change over then.....:confused:

I heard that synthetic doesn't offer as much friction between clutches as conventional oil does.

I heard that synthetic doesn't offer as much friction between clutches as conventional oil does.

I am not sure if that is true......I use Mobile 1 and not seeing any issue, my clutch works fine and knowing I have added protection is a good feeling...I just check my oil yesterday and its still pretty clean, almost 6 months ;)

Dude, synthetic is what pretty much everyone uses. There is something in regular oil called like friction modifiers or something wierd that will eventually mess with your clutch. Ive heard of guys going straight to synthetic with a new bike and no issues and guys that have waited a couple thousand miles and did the switch and no issues. I would go right to synthetic if it were me. Your clutch will love you! Its when you use regular oil that messes with our clutches.

Thats what I was talking about. The friction modifiers help with your clutch's friction and I've heard that since synthetic doesn't have those molecules, your clutch will start to slip and wear out quicker. Also why is it that some people say you have to wait until 3k miles to change over? Is it because the engine is not fully broken in until that many miles? Because if thats true than my bike might break down soon because I went to about 12k rpm when my bike had only 1900 miles.

yea i guess it could have something to do with the warranty and break in period for the wait to switch but id think it would be good to go synth right off the showroom floor. But thats just me. I think someone steered you a little wrong somehow on synthetic. Our bikes/clutches love synthetic, its the regular dino oil that will mess with it. Maybe do a little searching on the net and see what you come up with. Id put some synth in it this weekend if it were me. I dont know what your bike limits revs at but as long as your not bouncing off the rev limiter and redlining the shit out of it i think youll be allright. Just dont flog it too hard.

Here is some info on Mobile 1 motorcycle oil..... Mobile 1 (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oils.aspx) Hope this will give you better understanding of Full synthetic oil ;)


Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is designed for sport bikes. Most of these bikes have multi-cylinder/multi-valve engines and use a common sump, which means the engine oil lubricates the engine, transmission and wet clutch. So unlike Mobil 1 for cars, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch slippage.

The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads.

In addition, Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 has a high performance dispersant/detergent technology for better high-temperature performance and engine cleanliness. Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is also offered in a different viscosity grade than Mobil 1 for passenger cars.

Video (https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Videos/TV.aspx?videoID=5)

Hmm there is a lot of interesting arguments out there but i think I might change to synthetic at the next oil change. Also the friction modifiers reduce friction and I thought they increase it so now this makes more sense.

Hmm there is a lot of interesting arguments out there but i think I might change to synthetic at the next oil change. Also the friction modifiers reduce friction and I thought they increase it so now this makes more sense.

:) Glad you are clear on this now :)

What about synthetic blends. Are they any good?

What about synthetic blends. Are they any good?

I wouldn't waste my money on that stuff......I know Synthetic oil is kind of expensive but we only need 3Qts in our bikes plus added protection to our bike I recommend straight Full Synthetic instead. :)

Allright cool. I already run full synthetic in my car so I might as well go synthetic on my bike too. Maybe now my clutch will forgive me because of those few times that I was trying to pop wheelies!

Allright cool. I already run full synthetic in my car so I might as well go synthetic on my bike too. Maybe now my clutch will forgive me because of those few times that I was trying to pop wheelies!

I run Full Synthetic in all my vehicles even in my Quad......I trust and feel better knowing I will not have to worry about oil breaking down on me......since I don't have to change as often I am happy with that. So much going on in my life that the less I do the better I feel....so I can put more time riding.....:D

you guys ever try royal purple?

http://www.royalpurple.com/

you guys ever try royal purple?

http://www.royalpurple.com/

No, but heard a lot of people saying not as good.......too much for it and not as good right there is enough for me not to waste my time on.....Mobile 1 has been around and I have used it way before and now, they make oil for everything.....even for us to cook with.....:D

No, but heard a lot of people saying not as good.......too much for it and not as good right there is enough for me not to waste my time on.....Mobile 1 has been around and I have used it way before and now, they make oil for everything.....even for us to cook with.....:D

yeah its pretty expensive, i never used it i was just curious if it was any good, i think ill have to give mobile 1 a try :D

Most of the time valves don't charge acclimation back they are that new.....so if you are not actuality in AZ let your bounded boutique apperceive that you just wish to accept valve approval analysis first, don't let them rip you off